greenland

April in Uummannaq has to be one of the most spectacular months of the year. The sun is – usually – shining, it’s warm despite the cold, and the snow and sea ice is (hopefully) as it should – perfect for sledging.

And life goes on.

Teaching, socialising… feeding the dogs. I cut steps in the snow to make it easier to climb up to the dog yard. Carrying warm water, food, and stuff was heavy work.

Sliding down with an empty bucket or two after a cuddle with Nansen… Well, on a sunny day, it doesn’t get much better than that!

Bonus info… our house is the one with the door open.

Chris

My best day with the dogs – and the day I took the picture I’ve used as an author photo since Seven Graves, One Winter took off. On this day, the dogs and I went further than we’d ever been. And we crossed a small lead in the ice – tiny by Greenland hunter standards, but simply huge by mine, and Balto’s, the new kid on the team. Uummannaq fjord is a few kilometres deep – four at its deepest, I think. 🙂

As you can see, Balto wasn’t convinced we were going to make it.

He was rather reluctant.

But on this rather epic, -30C day, we prevailed!

And, yes, I’ve got video. But I’ll save that for another day. 😉

Chris

Just another beautiful day in Qaanaaq.

Minus 30+ degrees Celsius.

Lovely!

But the wind! Damn!

Chris

Sometimes. Not always. But this run was memorable and I have the all important photo of “feet on sledge” to prove it. What’s more, I don’t think I hurt myself on this one.

And the dogs were just fantastic!

Scenery wasn’t bad either. 😉

Buuuuut… it was a little cold when the sun went down!

Chris

I’ve always loved dogs, starting with Justin our Golden Retriever from when I was much, much younger. However, even though I shouldn’t have favourites, I will admit that Nansen was my favourite, and it was hard to beat a day like this when walking the dog.

Greenlanders don’t walk dogs in the sledge dog districts. Mainly because dogs are not pets above the Arctic Circle in Greenland, or on the East Coast. Dog owners in Nuuk might have a Labrador, but all breeds are forbidden in the north (and east). Police dogs have to have special permits to be allowed in the sledge dog districts, and sledge dogs removed from these areas are not allowed back.

Tough rules to preserve the breed and all the amazing qualities of “one seriously tough dog”.

Nansen was seriously tough, but he was also a damn good companion! And the days we spent hiking in the mountains or wandering over the sea ice were some of my most favourite days in Greenland.

Until he rolled in whale shit! (Cue ecstatic dog smile!) I dubbed this island “Whale Island” because of the stuff Nansen rolled in, and the whale bones all over the island, including the spine you can see over my left shoulder (above).

It brings a whole new meaning to “give the dog a bone”. Nansen was spoiled for choice!

Chris

In many ways, living in Greenland (and the Arctic) is like living in an action movie. Just getting around involves dog sledges, skidoos, helicopters, aircraft that can take off and land on short, gravel runways, and big ships. HDMS Ejnar Mikkelsen (P571) was a regular sight in Greenland.

The Danish navy’s patrol ship visited us in Nuuk in March (above), and in August in Qaanaaq (below).

Both photos were taken out of the window of our apartment (Nuuk) and our house (Qaanaaq).

And, yes, we could see the glacier(s) – more than one – from the kitchen window, lounge window, bedroom window… you get the picture. 😉

Chris